Tassie - North to South Solo Run November 2010
The drive from Canberra to Melbourne was uneventful; my youngest daughter Elizabeth (4) kept everyone alert by her constant chattering much to the annoyance of her 6 year old sister who just wanted to take in the scenery. We arrived at Port Melbourne with a couple of hours to spare before boarding the Spirit of Tasmania.
We eventually boarded after being checked by security twice! The trip across was nice, I had taken my tablets to prevent sea sickness so all was well .
The next morning we arrived in Devonport, it was a glorious day in Tassie, off to Mc Donalds for breakfast and then last minute supplies.
Just one day before the start of a journey that I had dreamt about for years, the nerves had settled a bit and I just wanted to get it happening.
The long range forecast looked ideal for the coming week. I was contacted by a very nice journalist from a local Tasmanian newspaper (The Advocate) and I gave them a brief overview of the run and the obligatory photos were taken by one of their photographers for an article. My satellite phone hadn’t arrived yet which had me slightly worried, not off to a good start. I had my SPOT GPS tracker and also a mobile phone so I was comfortable not having the satellite phone, at least for the first day as phone coverage was good.
I spent the afternoon checking gear, going over communication plans and my emergency management procedures. That night I couldn’t sleep.
Day 1 Start Penguin at Penguin
The big day had arrived, my support crew, consisting of my wife and two daughters were in Launceston and would meet me at Cradle Mountain that night, at least that was the plan.
My mum drove me to the start at the coastal town of Penguin; I started at approximately 0515 and in the dark, which was later than the 0430 start I had hoped for. A gentle breeze was blowing and it was cool but pleasant. There was just my mum to see me off and a text message from my wife and daughters wishing me well and a safe journey, it brought a tear to my eye. My spot tracker was activated and appeared to be doing what it should, by allowing my support crew and others to track my progress.
About 5 klms into the run and the start of the Penguin Cradle Trail
The first few kilometres were uneventful, though the adrenaline was plentiful as I ran south along streets and roads to the start of the Penguin Cradle Trail. I just couldn’t believe that it had all started. I disappeared along the trail into the Dial Ranges, I was feeling great, I then gradually dropped down off the ranges and ran along the Leven River before a tough climb up Mt Lorymer, in 3 klms I had climbed from about 50 metres in elevation to around 450 metres. After a brief run along a fire trail I dropped back into some very thick scrub, lots of trees down which slowed me down considerably. It was difficult to get a rhythm going but the solitude and scenery was amazing. This is what I love about trail running. Before long I was back into the open and skirting around a pine tree plantation which meant I was approaching Gunns Plains and a fairly steep descent back to the Leven River. I had only encountered 1 snake so far, not sure who got the greatest fright though.
Quick stop at the Leven River (about 13 klm in)
One of the many creek crossings
The climb up Mt Lorymer
The top of Mt Lorymer looking back toward the coast
The trail had lots of fallen trees
Much needed rest at Gunns Plains
Onto some bitumen and a good half hour rest by the Leven River at Gunns Plains, my meal of fruit buns, staminade, an apple and some lollies was perfect.
The day had turned out to be glorious, my wife texted me and informed me that the spot was working fine. I was very emotional; it was truly an incredible feeling to be doing this run! The magnitude of what I was doing was overwhelming, excitement, fear, sense of adventure; it was overloading all of my emotions.
After about 10 kilometres of bitumen and being chased by a dog or two (the last one looked more like a lion than a dog, it was huge, and I thank the owner from the bottom of my heart for stopping the dog from chasing me as I doubt I could have ran fast enough to get away. I had now passed the Hop farms, the tough stuff was about to begin.
I arrived at the start of the Penguin Cradle Trail again; the next 12 or so klms would be tough as I progressed toward the Leven Canyon. The track follows the river and at times rises well above it; it is not for the faint hearted, especially if you have a fear of heights. After a couple of klms it was obvious that this was going to be a physically challenging section. I was encountering so many trees down, mini landslides and a poorly marked track. It was energy sapping having to find ways around the trees and landslides because of the steepness of the terrain. The numerous creeks offered welcome respite from the harshness of the trail. I lost count of the amount of times I fell over and cursed the huge amount of tree falls that I had to negotiate.
The start of the revered Leven Canyon section (about 45 klm into the run)
A view from the track into the valley
It was now quite warm and the snakes were out basking in the sun everywhere, one particular Tiger snake would not move off the track, it seemed most upset that I was there, I tried making lots of vibration which just seemed to annoy it, I tried talking to it (yes I know snakes cant hear) – all to no avail, in the end I had to use a stick to coax it into moving! I should add that no harm was caused to the snake.
One of many along this section
An easy part of the Trail
More of the Leven section
The Leven River
A nice view from high on the trail
The rope climb section
More tough terrain (you can see the track marker on the tree)
Energy sapping terrain
Things were going well until I ran under some man ferns and didn’t see a hidden branch from a tree, whack, I fell backwards and onto the ground, I got up slowly and was quite dazed, my head hurt. I could feel something trickling down my face, I hoped it was sweat. As I placed my hand to my head, blood was dripping onto it. I had managed to put a nasty gash in my forehead. The bleeding stopped fairly quickly, though I felt quite nauseas. I continued on and after losing the track a couple of times decided to stop for a rest and some food. I then started vomiting, I felt really unwell. I could not keep anything down. I continued on as I was getting well behind schedule, at least that was how it felt. I did not want to be crossing Black Bluff in the dark.
I had finally arrived at the Canyon proper; this is where it gets real steep, real fast. I worked my way to the top of the knife blade ridge after losing the track again. I felt like crap, the vomiting started again and I was dehydrating fast. My head hurt, my left hand was swollen from one of many nasty falls and I felt so sick, thoughts of my dream ending here was fast becoming reality. I rested on the top of the ridge and admired the views and tried to reflect on the run so far. It had been a very hard day so far; the last 12 klms were the toughest trail running I have ever done. My shoes were black from all the mud and dirt; my socks that started off white were now black. I sat atop the ridge looking back toward the coast, some 50 klms away. I was still vomiting and felt so sick. I called my wife, and asked her if she could meet me on the Loongana road in about 2 hours. She was very concerned that I was so unwell. I slowly made my way down to the Canyon floor utilising several ladders and across a footbridge before a steep climb up to the road; this was a detour from the planned route.
The very steep descent from the top of the ridge (the trail descends left of the big rocky outcrop
One of the ladders
Another Ladder
The Canyon floor
Another Canyon shot
I arrived at the road and waited, and waited. I lay down and ate some food, drank some more staminade and water. It was just before dark when my wife arrived, I was most annoyed that it had taken her over 4 hours to get to me. She had misunderstood what time I wanted her to be there, I now had a real dilemma on my hands, continue the Black Bluff section feeling unwell and in the dark or miss this section and be driven to Cradle Mountain.
Remembering that the Sat phone still had not arrived and that I was sick’ I made the decision to be driven to Cradle and that I would complete the Black Bluff section a couple of days after completing the run, at least that was the plan.
I arrived at Cradle Mountain Discovery Holiday Park where I had booked a campsite for the night. My wife dropped me at reception which was long closed. I couldn’t work out where my site was so I bumbled off into the dark and just found a piece of ground to set up my tent. I then realised that I had somehow managed to leave my sleeping mat and tent poles in the support vehicle! I ended up sleeping under the fly sheet. It was cold and boy was it wet and uncomfortable.
Day 2 - I woke at about 0330 after probably what amounted to less than an hours sleep. I was wet and cold but felt much better than the day before. I felt something on my lip, it was a leech that had obviously had its free feed, as when I touched it, it came off. Nice to know it had a good time. I had some muesli bars, yoghurt and fruit. I was on my way; I ran along the Cradle Mountain Road, heading south, I registered in the PWS walker’s registration book. The run along the road was uneventful apart form a few vehicles offering me a lift (politely declined of course). The sun was coming up and it was a nice day, I continued on to Ronny Creek and onto the Overland Track. I felt so much better than the day before. I climbed well up to Marions Lookout. I had a short break, some more food and admired the views. A short reflection on life and off I went again. Through some light snow. I was making good progress;
The Overland Track
Marions Lookout
A beautiful part of the Overland Track
I passed quite a few walkers and even gave some of them some Chris and Kristen’s beef Perky Jerky to try, the offer was well received! It was going to be a warm day. The descent down into Waterfall Valley was uneventful and I continued on toward Windermere Hut. It was here that I started to feel quite unwell again; I was eating and drinking ok but just felt really hot and a bit unsettled in the stomach again. I continued on after some rest and soon got into a rhythm again.
The track deteriorated badly several klms out from Pelion Hut, lots of water and mud, really slippery, I was not enjoying this one bit. I passed numerous walkers along here, and they were struggling with huge packs and what looked like a poor choice in foot wear as they slipped on the wet, rocky track. I was finding it tough going as well, though I was thankful I was only carrying about 8 kilos. I was moving well when disaster struck. I fell badly after coming off a small drop off. It all seemed to happen in slow motion, I hit the deck hard; I lay on the ground in pain and my knee really hurt. I tried to get up, but the pain was overwhelming. Now I was in real trouble, I was only half way along the OT! I sat on the ground looking at my knee, I felt around it and it was really sore, apart from the pain, everything seemed to be ok apart from some pain in my ankle on the same leg. I managed to get to my feet and could walk but with considerable pain. I took some Voltaren with some food and rested for a bit. I continued on, the pain subsided a bit and I started to run again. I didn’t feel too bad as long as I was moving.
I continued on past Pelion Hut and the plentiful snakes that were basking in the glorious sun, at least the track had improved though my knee hadn’t By the time I arrived at Kia Ora my knee had swollen considerably and I was taking way too many pain killers, but I had little choice. My pace by now had really slowed. I had planned to be at Lake St Clair to meet my wife and children by 1900, it was 1900 now. I had to continue onwards.
I arrived at Windy Ridge at approximately 1930. It was around another 10 klms to Narcissus and a further 20 klms to Lake St Clair, I continued on, the sun was going down and I had a long way to go. I finally arrived at Narcissus Hut after 2100 to hear snoring emanating from the hut, nice for some I lamented. I continued on - south along the edge of Lake St Clair. The track around the Lake is horrible, tree roots, mud and more tree roots and mud. I hated it when I ran the Cradle Mountain Run 2 years ago and that was in the daylight! It was 2200 (10pm) and after 18 hours on the go I was getting really tired. It was quite cold now and my knee was so swollen that I could barely bend it. I plodded on and would lie down on the track and sleep every few klms, I would wake up when my body started shivering, I would then continue on until I got really tired again, lie down ,sleep for a few minutes, start shivering, get up and continue. The night just kept ticking away, I knew my wife would be worried, but I knew that my wife wouldn’t panic though; we had discussed this exact scenario. She knew that if I got into serious trouble that I would activate the SOS/HELP feature on the SPOT which acts like an EPIRB in an emergency.
I continued on into the night, thoughts of my family started to dominate my mind; I just wanted to get to them to let them know I was ok. The strange thing was that I was finding the mental and physical stress somewhat of an addiction, in that whilst I was in pain and I was cold and tired, it was giving me a perverse pleasure. I was enjoying the test that was confronting me. I was in a place mentally and physically where I had never been before, it was a new world for me. It was showing me that no matter how much pain you are in or how tired you are, the mind and body can continue well past what you think is the limit.
Eventually I could see some faint lights that indicated that I was getting close to Cynthia Bay and a warm bed. I hobbled into Cynthia bay after 0300, some 23 hours after setting off from Cradle Mountain! I have run this before in 12 hours so this gives you an idea of how much my knee injury had slowed me down.
When I arrived at the Lake St Clair resort I encountered a major problem, although I had booked accommodation, I didn’t know exactly where it was. Thankfully my wife is resourceful; I went to the visitor centre notice board to sign the walker registration book. There was a note from my wife informing me which cabin she was in, I must admit the prospect of banging on the door of every cabin until I found the right one was more than daunting.
My wife was obviously very relieved to see me, her first comment after saying ‘I was so worried about you’ was, ‘you don’t look tired at all’! She then demanded I take a shower, yeah I stunk! After a nice hot shower I settled in for some sleep and much needed rest. The problem with my knee weighed heavily on my mind.
Day 3
At around 0700, I was awake and felt ok, that was until I went to get out of bed, the pain in my knee was excruciating, 6 inches above and below my knee was red with tinges of yellow! I could not stand! My dream of completing the run was shattered, what do I do? What can I do? I said to myself repeatedly. I was sad and angry at the same time, I knew when I started that two things would stop me, the weather and injury. All the months of training, all my preparation and hard work was amounting to nothing. I talked to my wife and we decided to have breakfast and then decide what to do.
At breakfast I was again feeling sick and nauseas, I had a high temperature, I felt like I was boiling, I couldn’t eat much, we decided to stay an extra night in the hope that my knee would feel better after a days rest and treatment. I got back to the cabin and discovered a tick that had taken up residence in my leg; this was why I felt so unwell. An hour after the tick was removed I felt a lot better, my temperature came down and I was eating, just my knee was the problem. Unfortunately as the day progressed my knee and lower leg turned completely yellow, it was still terribly swollen.
Day 4
The next morning I was still in bad shape, my knee was still swollen; I had not slept because of the pain. I told my wife that I would continue.
I left at around 1000 (10am), my youngest daughter Elizabeth was crying because she did not want me to go. After giving her a cuddle I continued on, at least it was only about 7 klms of flat road until I went off road again. It was evident after a few klms that I was in real trouble; my knee could barely be weighted, tears flowed, not just because of the intense pain but because my journey was ending, all my training and planning was now worth nothing. I arrived at Derwent Bridge and agonised over what to do, I had an agreement that my wife would make the decision for me to pull out if the need should arise. That was great in theory. My wife was visibly upset at the prospect of having to determine my fate, she couldn’t do it. After what seemed like an eternity I decided that in the interest of my safety and the safety of others, I would withdraw, the run will be there next time. I was obviously very disappointed, I felt like a failure. Those that said it couldn’t be done would be rejoicing, and that really hurt!
The drive back to Launceston was filled with a lot of what ifs; the one thing that was clear was my resolve to attempt it again in 2011.
Day 5
My knee was still swollen and very painful; I knew that I had made the right decision. A visit to a doctor and confirmation that I had a badly sprained knee, the doctor said I was very lucky not to have sustained cartilage damage, or cruciate ligament damage. She was most impressed with the oedema in my leg and foot, typical doctor I guess. My knee and most of my leg was yellow, unfortunately I didn’t take any photos.
Epilogue
The experience has created so many positives in my life, though I did not complete the run, I still have an immense sense of achievement. It reinforced how much my family means to me and how much I mean to them. Mentally and physically I was prepared for the run but you can’t eliminate the risk of injury as I found out. As I said earlier, injury and the weather would determine the success or failure of completing the run.
I was NOT prepared for the Leven Canyon section of the Penguin Cradle Trail and was moving at less than 2 kph at times. The trail was incredibly tough due to tree falls (not just single trees but whole stands), a head injury along this section certainly did not help. This section of trail is very poorly maintained, though the recent months of extreme weather would have contributed to this.
I got my daily nutrition and hydration right and never went wanting in that department.
Next time I will also be ensuring that my Satellite phone arrives on time – no thanks to Australia Post!
I met some fantastic people on the trails and off, most thought I was crazy!
I am back running again now and already my plans are underway to run again in 2011. I will be raising money for the Ovarian Cancer Research Foundation (OCRF)
The OCRF has developed to become one of Australia’s pre-eminent body supporting ovarian cancer research programs that occur nationally and is focused upon the understanding of the causes of ovarian cancer, its early detection and improve patient survival.
http://www.everydayhero.com.au/gary_burgess_2
Thank you
Lastly I would like to thank Tasmania Parks and Wildlife http://parks.tas.gov.au Survival Storehouse http://www.survivalstorehouse.com for their excellent Mainstay Survival Food Bars, Perky Jerky http://www.perkyjerky.com.au/PerkyJerkyHome.html and The Advocate newspaper.
Thankyou to the following individuals/organisations –
Anne Skinner (PWS) –whom I can’t thank enough
Chris and Kristen (PerkyJerky.com.au) – Chris you are a legend
Lake St Clair Lodge – great accommodation, great food and fantastic service, special thankyou to their reception staff and restaurant staff.
Sue from Survival Storehouse for providing Mainstay products (there food bars are just the greatest)
Slowmo – words can’t express my gratitude for your generous donation but also your help and support
A big thankyou to all those that donated to the Black Dog Institute and offered encouragement
Thank you to my wife and my two wonderful daughters, who allowed me to disappear for hours on end during training and tolerated my obsession with the run. And for the wonderful support and encouragement they gave me.
Thanks to my mum, who as always was and is always there for me.
A very special thank you to my wonderful sister, Bec, as always you gave me support and encouragement, just like you have always.
And lastly but not least – thank you to all those that donated and offered words of encouragement and some fantastic advice!
No comments:
Post a Comment